Paintings of France, Italy and Beyond

The misty painting of the Lot Valley continues….

Still trying to keep things soft, but articulate them at the same time. Today I’m working on the sheep. Meanwhile, I’ve been told that it’s okay to continue my obsessive postings about the new studio  . So here’s a little mini tour:

First of all, so much of the furniture in this space came from IKEA that you’d think I had an interest in the company or something (none exists–other than a serious interest in shopping there. ) In fact, we put so many of my “IKEA finds”  together that Dave started calling it “I killya” because of how much this stuff weighs.  Still, there’s no denying that they have some intelligent designs to outfit an office and art studio (and the price is right too!)

Here’s a view of my painting area and the sink. At first I was going to go with a regular utility sink and cabinet, until I found the “Udden” sink at IKEA. 

That sink nearly DID kill us, actually–trying to lift the coordinating cabinet up to screw it into position in it’s nifty little slot. For a while after that little ordeal I seriously thought I had nerve damage in my hand (my “painting hand, too!)

Below is a view from my little sitting/library area looking toward the art bins that Dave built for me. There are some more bins on top temporarily, but they will go up in the loft area when we’re finished with them. At this writing, we’re still working on studio storage, so I’ll write more on that in a future post. A bookcase blocks the view, but the sink sits across from the bins, and my main easel stands across from the full-length mirror pictured, so I can check my work in reverese.

 And now flipping my position, here is a view of my sitting/reading area from beside my art bins (still populating the shelves with my many art books!)

I have divided my sitting and office area from the painting/sink area with a large 6 foot room divider with storage cubbies from IKEA’s Expedit storage series. I like that it divides the space while still giving me a feeling of openness. What is hard to see is that I’ve bolted this unit at a right angle to a white bookcase that faces the French doors for added function and stability.

The ladder is actually an old telephone ladder like this one that I bought cheap on Craigslist. We’re still working to make it a moving ladder on a track…almost there.

Now we’re on the other side of the room divider looking at my table where I do my framing, plein air panel prep, and flat art-mounting. All those little drawers are great for my framing tools and fasteners.

In this same “room” sits my office. Can you tell how much I like paperwork?  I’ve rather been avoiding going through my files, but since it’s tax season, it’s the task before me:

Note those big squares of light from the windows and how far they come into the room. This is why I opted not to have east-facing windows also on my painting side. I will likely put up some kind of sheer window treatment soon to diffuse this light so it won’t be so harsh.

Conspicuously absent from these pictures are my paintings that will in future be on the walls and in the bins. We have yet to get them out of my temporary storage space until we have finalized our art storage solutions….but more on that in a future post.

Jennifer Young; Vibrant Landscapes
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My online presence has been a little quiet lately because we are getting down to the “finishing touches” of prepping my new art studio for move-in. After my lights were installed, I finally came to a decision about the color of the walls, and I’ve spent the majority of my time in the last couple of weeks painting the walls and trim, installing picture moulding, painting more trim, and touching up walls and trim some more.  (Just one more door to go!) Not only am I body-weary, but I am also decision-making weary. So it is a good thing that most of the big decisions are now behind us.

I really had a time trying to decide on wall color. I knew I wanted a color (as opposed to white/off-white). But having had yellow walls in my last studio, (great color for the gallery walls, not great for art-making) I also knew I wanted something that was neutral enough so as not to cast the wall color onto my paintings and palette.

While the color that’s so popular right now with many portrait painters (mentioned in this previous blog post) was waaay too dark for my taste, I did like the idea of a neutral gray/green. So I decided to start my quest by playing with a sample of the portrait painters’ color (Benjamin Moore’s “Mohegan Sage”, #2138-30) to see if I could figure out the underlying base color by tinting it with a bit of white.

It may look a little more “colorful” on the computer monitor, but the lightest tint was a fairly dead-looking gray.  Benjamin Moore lists Mohegan Sage as a “black”, and having tinted it I can see why. It probably is a combination of black with just a touch of yellow. It’s very rich in its full strength, but none too inspiring in my tinting experiment! Still, tinting up to an almost elephant gray, I couldn’t deny that it is a very neutral color, and thought I could use my tinted sample against some other color swatches to find a related color that was both lighter and more inspiring but still neutral for my studio walls.

What I found was a beautiful rich color that seemed to be in line with the darker sage, though perhaps a tiny bit cooler. It’s a color called “Storm Cloud Gray” (also by Benjamin Moore, # 2140-40.)

While this color is a good deal lighter than the dark sage, I was still a little concerned that it would be too dark. So I decided to use it on just one wall as an accent and do the rest of the walls in an even lighter shade that I also liked– again a gray green called “Paris Rain,” (BM color #1501). Here is the result:

Here are the lighter walls running into the deeper accent wall, complete with sleepy husband reporting for cleanup duty last Saturday morning (what a guy!)

I find both of these colors really lovely and pleasing. Sometimes they look more gray, sometimes more green; though in either instance they still remain neutral enough not to overpower. 

In the above picture you can also see the picture moulding we installed so that I can hang artwork. Unlike the trim moulding, I decided to paint the picture rail the same color as the walls, both because I wanted to keep the high walls looking “high” and because the picture moulding was fairly plain and nothing special.

Since Dave (and friends) installed both the floors and the trim moulding, I wanted to do all of the painting myself to give the poor man a break. I totally underestimated how much time it would take. I guess it was those high walls that fooled me, but at last it’s more or less done and we’ve had the “SmartBox” delivered (portable storage box). Over the next few we can actually start the process of moving in, assembling furniture, and piecing together my various work stations. This too will take a while (and likely a few more trips to IKEA) but it’s actually starting to feel like a real art studio now. I’m excited about the prospect of being in there and getting back to painting again (as in ART) on a regular basis!

The next big challenge will be figuring out some storage solutions that make sense for the new space. Much of that will have to be dealt with after I’ve gotten my main workstations set up, but I will be sure to blog about it as I go along. Meanwhile, I doubt I’ll do much blogging over the next few days, as we will be moving and dismantling my office for a bit.

Jennifer Young; Vibrant Landscapes
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So all of this moving stuff has gotten me working on new studio plans, and I have certain things that I know I want for my next space. Namely these are: lots of storage, lots of light, good ventilation, and enough room to step back and forth while I’m painting. In the book Organizing From The Inside Out by Julie Morgenstern, the author suggests setting up whatever area you’re organizing in “stations” by the kinds of activities you do.

The Setup

• A painting station, comprised of:
  • Easel, palette, monitor, large mirror (set up across from the easel to check my work).
  • Additional items: Optional secondary easel for a larger wet painting or WIP, bins or shelves for my paints and supplies, a drying station - preferably a “drying wall” for larger works in progress, and/or some shelving to prop up wet panels after plein air painting.

Optional but desired:

• A sitting/viewing area- for reading and assessing my work
• High ceilings (in a smaller space it can provide a more “open” feeling”)

I don’t ask for much, do I?

Into the light

Of all of the concerns, good natural lighting is among the biggest wants for me, because for one, working with inadequate light is hard on the eyes, and in my current workspace it has been less than adequate. But you have to be careful because if there’s too much of it shining directly on your canvas;  it causes glare problems with oils.

Artists always talk about north light as being the best for the most consistent, even and balanced natural light in the studio.  But a north-facing studio isn’t always possible (my northern light is indirect at best because it’s blocked by the building across the alley from us.) And any natural lighting will still need to be supplemented by artificial light, for overcast days and evenings when I may need to work, and for this I’ve found a few options.

Full spectrum lighting mimicks daylight, and it’s what I currently use in my studio work area. I have this long flourescent bulb by Ott-Lite installed in a regular shop light that hangs just above and slightly behind me in my painting area. It does a pretty good job on my workspace, but I still feel the need to supplement with additional lamps.

The reason full-spectrum is recommended is that it is more “neutral” than the yellow cast that is often put off by incandescent bulbs. Artist Nita Leland has a good article explaining this further, so if you’re an artist you may wish to check it out. 

In addition to the above-mentioned option, we’re looking into some kind of solar tube lighting. Friends of ours have these installed in their home, and it’s amazing how much light it can put out. I light this option better than a skylight for my painting area, as a skylight can cause a more spotlight effect and the solar tube is less directional and more all-over and diffused.

One other option I hope to incorporate is clerestory windows. If I can get ones that open, they can serve number of purposes;  indirect natural light, additional ventilation, and the preservation of precious wall space in the painting area.

What’s your ideal studio?

If you’re still awake and reading all of this, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Anything I’ve missed? What’s your ideal studio? And while you’re mulling that over, check out talented artist Casey Child’s blog - in particular his chronicles of the fabulous new (huge) garage/studio in progress- northern lit and all. His early posts on the topic have some great inspiration pictures too. I bookmarked his site some time ago, and in fact, his research is so exhaustive that I might not have bothered with a post of my own. But I’m nearly finished, so I might as well hit the publish button now!

Jennifer Young; Vibrant Landscapes
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The last few paintings I’ve featured from my recent France travels are done on Multimedia Artboard. I posted about this surface before when I was getting ready for my trip, and I thought I’d write a little more about it as a follow up.

I really enjoyed this surface, especially for traveling and painting en plein air. For one thing, it is very thin, so you can pack a good number of these boards and not take up a ton of room in your suitcase. You can also cut the board to size very easily with either a guillotine-type paper cutter or an exacto knife.

In fact, it is so lightweight that when I first ordered this material I thought I had been sent the wrong product. I was expecting a board, and what I got was something that seemed more like a rigid watercolor paper. I even called the manufacturer to ask about it. I will say that the manufacturer was extremely helpful, and was almost at a point where he was willing to ship me some board from his own stock so that I’d have some for my trip, even though I hadn’t originally purchased it from him. But he told me, “If it’s my board it should be very rigid. In fact, it will shatter if you try to bend it.” Sure enough, when I put it to the test, it did.

That’s the one thing to be careful of with this product–but protect the corners in travel and don’t drop it from a balcony, and you should be fine. It has a rough side and a smoother side to it, so you have a choice on which side to paint, depending on your needs. I also like that it accepts a variety of media–watercolor, acrylic AND oil. It can accept oils either as is, or primed, if you wish, with gesso. I double primed mine, but it was a little slick, so I think next go around I’ll try it unprimed to see what that’s like.

While the board is rigid, because it is thinner than a “board”, I taped mine to a larger board (gatorboard or coroplast) to give me a stronger work surface.  For framing, I can simply pop it in a frame backed by a sturdier board and it’s ready to go.

I am finding the Multimedia Artboard  much easier to mount and frame after the fact than the other surface I took with me, a fine-weave primed linen. And while linen has luxurious qualities all its own, I can easily and happily see myself going back and forth between these two surfaces for my plein air painting travels.

Jennifer Young; Vibrant Landscapes
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Thanks to my niece Molly, a talented artist in her own right, for inspiring this blog post:

So you have a nice little painting you’ve just completed, but none the photographs you took do it justice. How can you get decent photos for your website? I am certainly no expert photographer, but I will share what I do for my own website to produce decent reproductions of flat art for online display.

Photographing artwork is definitely a little tricky. If the artwork has any sheen at all, any flash or angled light can cause glare on the surface, which will distract or obscure the true nature of the picture. These days, I use a digital camera for all of my photography and tend to do a fair amount of color correction in Photoshop. But I used the same method of photography I will describe below, even in the pre-digital age when I made slides of my work. 

The best conditions I’ve found for photographing artwork is outside on a bright but cloudy day. This gives consistent diffused light and the least amount of glare. If photographing on a sunny day, try to set your painting up at the edge of a shaded area so that enough light reaches the painting without shining directly on it. Tree shade isn’t good because of the dappling. It needs to be even light, so maybe an overhang on the side of a building or something.

If you are shooting film or are otherwise not able to correct the camera angle after the fact, you’ll need to make sure your canvas is as perpendicular to the camera as possible. You can either set it up on an easel or hang it on a wall on the side of a building if the overhang isn’t too large. To avoid the fish-eye effect that can occur because of a wide-angle lens curve, you should set your camera up on a tripod far enough away from the painting and zoom all the way in on your painting to fill the lens as best you can with the picture. This will minimize that fish-eye distortion. (Thanks to artists David Darrow, James Abbott and others in the Daily Painters Discussion group for this and other technical tips!)  

When photographing, I use my camera’s manual setting so that I can set the white balance and bracket the exposures, just in case what I’m seeing in the viewfinder isn’t what I get on my computer screen. Then I’ll examine all of these images in Photoshop, and with the painting sitting next to me, I’ll make adjustments to the chosen image in brightness, contrast, color, etc. Photoshop is great also for correcting the picture if the painting doesn’t look exactly square. But Photoshop is also $$$ so if you don’t already have it, you might look for a cheaper image editing software program that can do most of these basic corrections.

For the web, I will overlay my copyright info and save my images as 72 dpi JPEGs. For archiving, though, I save the image at the largest size my camera setting will allow, and save it as a TIFF. JPEGs are fine for web stuff, but not great for archiving because it is a “lossy” image format. This means that every time the JPEG is opened it looses a bit of information, even if it is a large file. For any kind of high quality reproduction (such as giclee prints), the best option is to have the painting professionally scanned or photographed at a very high resolution.

Jennifer Young; Vibrant Landscapes
Oil Paintings and Art Prints Online
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